TEMYRIS

Lipstick as a War Cry

The History of Female Emancipation Through Makeup

Throughout the centuries, makeup, and particularly lipstick, has far surpassed its simple aesthetic function to become a symbol of women’s resistance and emancipation. Far from being just a touch of color on the lips, it asserts itself as a true “war cry,” a rallying call, and an assertion of power.

From ancient Egypt to the suffragettes, from contemporary political leaders to current liberation movements, makeup has always been a channel of communication and an instrument of social change. Each era has infused its own message into the application of beauty products with bold colors: a stance, a challenge to established conventions, and an affirmation of feminine identity.

At Temyris, we embrace and celebrate this transformative energy by creating a collection of clutch bags and beauty products dedicated to the Amazons of the 21st century. Our creations are not mere accessories, but symbols of freedom and identity that powerfully embody self-confidence and the independent spirit of those who dare to question the norms.
Beyond appearances, it is essential to “decode without embellishment” what lies behind makeup. For here, it is about much more than pigments and powders: it is, on one hand, a deep reflection on the impact of our aesthetic choices, our personal experiences with makeup as self-expression, and, on the other hand, a desire to enrich the discourse on beauty and emancipation.

Lipstick: From Antiquity to Icon of Rebellion

Antiquity and Renaissance

From the dawn of history, lipstick transcended its mere aesthetic function to become a multifaceted symbol of power. In ancient Egypt, legendary figures like Cleopatra used it not only to seduce but also to assert their status and their connection to the sacred. Precious substances, such as red ochre and lead bromide, carried deep meanings in religious and social rites, illustrating a profound cultural understanding of makeup not only as ornamentation but also as a talisman against unseen forces.

In the ancient city-states of Greece and Rome, cosmetics were not mere frivolities but subtle weapons in the game of power. These beauty elixirs, reserved for the (very) high society, courtesans, and the masters of illusion such as actors, symbolized their status and influence. Faces adorned with rare colors and ointments became mirrors of social hierarchy, reflecting their privileges and aspirations.

At the dawn of the Renaissance, the art of makeup underwent a metamorphosis. Pigments became banners of wealth and domination on the carefully crafted faces of European nobility. In a polyphony of colors and textures, makeup reflected social hierarchy, with each shade and texture asserting the status and influence of its wearer.

Ritual and Protective Use of Makeup in Ancient Egypt

In the scorching sands of ancient Egypt, makeup was not a mere matter of frivolous beauty but a sacred art, an invisible armor against occult forces. Away from the pomp of the court, Egyptians adorned themselves with priceless pigments, transforming their faces into mystical talismans.

Kohl, the intense black pigment that lined their eyes, was more than just an enhancer. Applied meticulously every morning, it became a screen against the merciless rays of the sun and sandstorms, protecting sensitive eyes from illness and blindness. But its reach did not end there. Kohl was also an “effective” fetish that repelled evil spirits and negative influences, thus preserving the soul from harm…

The Role of Makeup in Roman Society

In the cobblestone streets of ancient Rome, cosmetics were both a beauty artifice and a coded language, an ostentatious proclamation of status and power. Only the highest classes, the patricians, and the courtesans dared to adorn themselves with these expensive colors, transforming their faces into living portraits of wealth and distinction.

In contrast to the common products of the populace, Roman elites adorned themselves with lead-based foundations, crafted from rare and costly materials, which unified their complexion and masked imperfections, revealing a translucent skin, a symbol of nobility and refinement. Their lips were adorned with vermilion lipstick, a bright red powder obtained from powdered cochineal insects, accentuating their charm and loudly proclaiming their opulence.

Suffragettes and Emancipation

In the nascent 20th century, as suffragettes raised the banner of resistance, a new tool of struggle emerged on their lips: lipstick. Under the impetus of Elizabeth Arden, these Amazons of freedom traded demure beauty for bolder shades, transforming makeup into a fervent symbol of rebellion.

Far from being mere coquetry, lipstick became a combat tool for women’s suffrage, a silent manifesto against the conventions and patriarchal constraints that shackled womankind. Each application of color was a proclamation of visibility and autonomy, a challenge to stifling social constraints.

The Role of Makeup During World Conflicts World War II

In the tumult of World War II, lipstick surpassed its aesthetic usage. It became a standard-bearer of resistance, an anthem to resilience, and an affirmation of femininity in the face of adversity.

In America, lipstick was galvanized by propaganda campaigns, celebrated as an act of patriotism and an antidote to fear. Women engaged in the war effort used it to maintain an appearance of normalcy and hope. It was for them an affirmation of their inner strength, their will to survive, and contribute to victory against fascism.

Creativity in Times of Shortage

But war also brought shortages, and women had to find ingenious ways to recreate their precious lipstick. They turned beets into makeshift pigments, inventing secret recipes in their kitchens, refusing to succumb to gloom and defeat. It was not just about beauty but a matter of dignity, an affirmation of their control over their own lives, in the most trying times.

The Influence of Makeup on Troop Morale

Moreover, lipstick was a beauty accessory on the home front, as it was part of governments’ propaganda machinery. In Britain, for example, campaigns encouraged women to continue wearing makeup, asserting that it boosted troop morale and personified resistance to the enemy. Lipstick was the radiant expression of the “British spirit,” concretely illustrating the refusal to be beaten down by war.

Modern Usage

Even today, makeup continues to be used as an allegory of resistance in social movements. During recent protests in Hong Kong, women boldly used colorful makeup to conceal their identities and express their dissent. Makeup thus became a symbolic weapon, a means to defy oppression and claim freedom of expression.

Cosmetics and Everyday Empowerment

Impact on Personal Well-Being

Moreover, cosmetics are tools of “empowerment,” catalysts of personal well-being, and inclusion. A person battling cancer sees their body weakened by the disease. Makeup becomes for them an armor-adornment against worry and uncertainty. A touch of lipstick, a stroke of eyeliner, and suddenly, their confidence is revived, their spirit awakens to something other than affection. Psychological studies confirm this undeniable power: makeup reinforces dignity and autonomy, allowing women to reclaim their image and self-esteem, even in the most difficult times.

Evolution of Beauty Standards

But makeup is not only a source of comfort in adversity; it is also an instrument of personal expression. In a changing world where beauty standards are being redefined, makeup becomes a tool to explore one’s identity, to assert one’s uniqueness. Gone are the dictates of perfection, replaced by the celebration of diversity! The “body positive” movement, currently on the rise, invites us to embrace all forms of beauty, to break models and free ourselves from rigid standards of the past.

Inclusion of Women with Disabilities

Similarly, makeup can be an empowering trigger for disabled women. A stroke of mascara, a bit of eyeshadow allows them to be proud of their identity and strength. Initiatives like those led by UN Women highlight the importance of an intersectional approach, considering both gender and disability. The goal? To ensure equal opportunities and eliminate systemic barriers that limit disabled women’s access to economic and social opportunities.

Politics and Makeup: An Unexpected Dialogue

Makeup and Political Figures

If we pay attention to the unexpected dialogue between politics and makeup, we are intrigued by the fascinating choreography where beauty and power intertwine.

Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, a figure in American politics, has shaken up the use of makeup, turning it into a toolkit for expression and political power. For AOC, it is by no means a mere question of aesthetics, but solely a means to defy stereotypes and assert her presence on the political stage. Her bold choices in makeup illustrate her willingness to break codes and redefine expectations related to female power.

Makeup and Social Media

In our over-digitized environment, social media amplify this revolution. Beauty tutorials no longer limit themselves to makeup techniques but become platforms for expression and advocacy. Content creators use their audience to raise awareness about social and political issues, integrating messages about self-acceptance, diversity, and important causes.

These viral videos go beyond mere beauty, influencing cultural norms and sparking important debates (and quarrels!). Makeup thus becomes a vector of social change, using its fame to sway opinion, influence consumption patterns, and create engaged communities around common values.

Makeup and Women’s Liberation Movements

History is replete with examples where makeup served as an iconic bias in women’s liberation movements. Suffragettes, those pioneers of voting rights, used specific colors like green for hope and purple for individuality in their campaigns, making makeup a powerful mode of political expression.

More recently, in movements like Black Lives Matter, makeup has again played a crucial role in expression and solidarity. Participants used it to bolster their public statements, unite people around common causes, and assert their identity in the fight against systemic racism.

Hope and Freedom

From the lipstick of Egyptian queens to Amazons worldwide, from beauty salons to battlefields, from political movements to daily struggles for emancipation, makeup has crystallized remarkable narratives, where every brushstroke, every touch of gloss, every palette of colors becomes an act of resistance and self-assertion, where every woman is free to express her uniqueness.

Makeup is not just an artifact of the past; it is a living force in our present, where an aesthetic choice is an act of personal expression. How do they reflect our convictions? How do they influence the society around us?

At Temyris, we celebrate this transformative power by creating exceptional collections for the Amazons of the 21st century. Our creations combine aesthetics, practicality, and ethical commitment because we believe that beauty can be a force for change, a reflection of individual and collective values.

If a touch of makeup is a note of hope, freedom, and emancipation, then let us unleash our creativity!

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Aurore Vast, Fondatrice
Aurore Vast
President
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